Monday, 31 May 2010
Sunday, 30 May 2010
Leaving both the Holy Land but especially the other pilgrims was extremely sad, we'd all come to know one another so well - and that includes the place! I now begin to comprehend what has driven Fr Derek to return over these years. Its beauty and its complexity. Its antiquity and its drive to be part of the 21st century. Its pain and its vibrancy.
I was in a queue today at the airport, waiting to get my passport cleared before boarding, and I got talking to a lovely older man. He lives in Cornwall and is an active member of the Jewish community there. We talked lots - its was a HUGE queue - but one of the things I remarked to him about was that I was completely absorbed by the amount of prayer and worship that happens in Jerusalem... Given that the three Abrahamic faiths all have a focal point there I am left intrigued by what the past, present and future hold for that incredible city...
My mind is too replete at present and certainly too tired. I will post some photos in the morning including one for my profile - I hope! I saw moon-set today... but when its the equivalent of 3am UK time you'd prefer to be going home rather than getting up.
Saying farewell is tough though but I know that for the 34 of us who shared this journey it is truly only Au Revoir!
I promise more tomorrow!!
Saturday, 29 May 2010
These are just some of the photos I took on our "Holy Week in a Day"! Reasonably self explanatory:
Our final Mass - in Gethsemane
Sunlight cascading through the roof light above the tomb in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
Its the last night and my brain is in a spin! SO much happened today its difficult to know where to start - except I have decided that this blog will continue when I return to the UK as I recall fresh memories or have further reflections.
But what about today? It was peaks and troughs, from the sublime to the surreal! For example we ended the day with four of us going to the Syrian Vespers... utterly sublime. Then we came back to the hotel and saw fireworks being let off in the daylight!! Completely surreal! What was all that about?!? You couldn't see them...
The whole experience, from Passion tide through to the resurrection was intense. Walking down the Mount of Olives in total silence clutching palm crosses was beautiful. Having our second open air Mass in a garden at Gethsemane was awe-inspiring but the noise of the traffic and constant horns/sirens was at the opposite end of the spectrum to the tranquility of the Galilean experience.
Talking of noise brings to mind my first thought of the day when we at at the Church of the Paternoster (Our Father). The church has the Lord's prayer in countless languages, really poignant. But what struck me was the bird song that accompanied our visit - were they saying their own version... Who knows but it sounded so sweet.
After another delicious lunch - I never thought I'd be so excited to see a huge plate of mashed potatoes! - we started on the route of the Via Doloroso (I'll check the spelling later). It couldn't have been a more exquisite start, Clare - a fellow pilgrim - is a trained singer and she sung a solo at the first station. Hauntingly beautiful, words fail me, tears stung my eyes and wet my cheeks. Another sublime moment.
The actual route took us through souks that were so crowded that people pushed us and grumbled. It was pretty rough at times. But I suspect nowhere near as rough as the reaction Jesus got. Two of our number got lost at one point but we were reunited not long afterwards.
It was hot and uncomfortable, testing and trying. It was utterly draining in many ways and the emotion of standing in front of the site of the Crucifixion was palpable. A really sublime moment...
Then some of our number queued to get into the site of the tomb - and, therefore, resurrection. What a difficult time that was. It was incredibly hot and people were constantly queue jumping. The stress of it all was horrible, a really unpleasant time. But it all faded as we approached the altar in the tomb and five of us knelt together... I haven't got the words to describe how that felt.
We escaped the melee that was the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and went to a cafe. We ordered four Arabic beers. They duly arrived and revealed that they were "0.0% alcohol" brewed in the Netherlands and called Bavaria! Definitely surreal!!
Which then brings me back to the tranquility of the Syrian vespers... what a delightful way to end our day and our journey.
Please excuse the typos etc, I promise I'll correct them on my return to the UK... but we have a 5am alarm call in the morning so the bar beckons!!
I do hope you're enjoying this as much as me - let me know!
Friday, 28 May 2010
Thursday, 27 May 2010
Last night we had Margaret's friend Rebecca visit us and tonight Alice joined us. Both work for the UN here in the Holy Land and both are impressive young women. They have told us all sorts, mostly how much they love this place and the people but the one thing that has stuck in my mind is that only 5% of the water supply in Gaza meets the WHO standard. I find it challenging that in our 'modern' world we are still confronted by such a statistic - AND that is replicated throughout the world, to our disgrace...
But how about a few random recollections from today! We went to Bethany first of all, the most unexpected thing I saw was chickens in plastic boxes, piled up outside shop - alive, but I assume not for long! (I have a photo that will show that but it'll have to wait!)
We got our first glimpse of the wall that separates and divides... I think for Europeans the echoes to the Berlin Wall are too poignant. We took a while to drive to Bethany, when is was a walkable distance.
We went to the orphanage that is supported by the McCabe Educational Trust. To say that I felt we were visiting a shrine is not too far from the truth. The work that happens there is incredible - approx 90 young boys between the ages of 3 and 15 live there, it is their home. They are educated, clothed, fed and there is a good feel about the place. I think they are loved, I am sure they are loved. They looked happy and well adjusted as they sang to us - and we to them (The wheels on the bus!!) But we sneaked a peek in a 'dormitory' and there were no personal effects. I have no doubt those kids were cared for but they need the warmth of relationship. The stats suggest that many find it there and their lives are transformed. I am not ashamed to say I cried!
And then we visited the house of Lazarus (and his sisters Mary and Martha) Lazarus was raised from the dead by Jesus - and before he did that Jesus wept.... I'll say no more... except that there was a sticker above most of the doors in the orphanage that said ' Life is worth living'
On a lighter note, where the bus had parked a camel was also 'sitting'. Two of the group were tempted to ride it! I mention this because the young boy who sold me some water (chilled and necessary!) told me a joke.. The camel had a poo and it was handled speedily - but before they were cleared the boy came up to me giggling, pointed to the droppings and said "falafel"! Child humour is universal - as is adult!
We then travelled down to Jericho. Literally down! The desert was spectacular and I loved the goat/sheep paths over the hillsides (again photo evidence can be provided!)
Jericho came with a cable car ride up the Mount of Temptation. Stunning views - to begin with - and a fabulous monastery to visit, perched on the side of the mountain. Icons to die for! Views weren't bad either! But the visibility decreased and sand storm blew in!
We saw a flock of camels wandering around the suburbs of Jericho, not something that you see often in the UK! We had glimpses of the Bedouin who live in the Judean desert hills and tend flocks of sheep and goats... We drank in experiences that few of us realised still existed!
Goodness knows what tomorrow will bring... We are off to Bethlehem. One last thought as I log off... What did I learn about my faith today... well I learnt that its not just ideological - its real and has to be lived!
Yesterday I forgot to say that I awoke, briefly, just around dawn and the walls of Jerusalem were bathed in a pink hue.... delightful!
The temperature reached 34 C yesterday and it was a long day with lots of time outside! I was wearing a muslin shirt but still my arms are pink!
Today the sky in cloudy and looking quite threatening in one direction. Just as well I packed my umbrella... I assume all my fellow Brit travellers did too!!!
More tonight including some more photos hopefully, have a great day - I'm off to Bethany and Jericho with a cable car ride up a mountain... I'm not good at heights!
Wednesday, 26 May 2010
(I'm having fun trying to add photos so that may have to wait!)
Our first full day in Jerusalem and I have been blown away! The alarm call and breakfast were early - especially after getting to bed the wrong side of midnight but then that's what pilgrimages are all about!
We started the day by celebrating Mass at St Ann's church. (St Ann is the mother of Mary.) We had been warned that the acoustics were stunning but nothing prepared me for the sensation I felt as the notes echoed around and around and then hung in the upper reaches of the roof... Possibly a foretaste of what heaven will be like? Who knows, but I do know that if that is the case I'd be more than happy.
We then started on a walking tour that introduced us to the old town and the Old Testament. So we saw sites that linked directly to David, Solomon and Hezekiah We dipped out toes in the pool of Siloam where Jesus cured the blind man. We were challenged afresh by Jesus' question to the cripple at the pool of Bethsaida - Do you want to be healed? Do you want your life to be turned upside down? We saw the tunnel that was constructed to secure the water supply in 8th century BC, that was started from each end AND met in the middle... a latter day Channel Tunnel, without all the technology.
We walked along and crossed the Kidron Valley and encountered four young boys who were clearly 'bunking' school! They were sitting in an opening about 20ft above the ground in an old carved tomb. They lowered a plastic bag and asked for a shekel in return for their photos to be taken! Very enterprising! (Mark - note, I used the word very!)
I was really struck by the steepness of the hills. We walked up and down valleys. It was tough going! But we all made it. We saw cavernous prison cells and the holes through the ceilings where the persecuted were 'strung up' to be flogged. It was completely believable... in fact all too graphic...
We went into the Armenian Quarter for lunch - it was delicious! We were reminded of the genocide that forced them to flee through a torn poster on a wall.
Before we attended Vespers in the Armenian Orthodox church - utterly amazing - we went to see the church of the Dormition. One of the possible sites where Mary is buried. (The daughter of St Ann, and mother of Jesus! Are you keeping up with all this? Its a bit like a TV serial, you have to keep your wits about you!) The church was so beautiful. It was tranquil, well it was when we arrived, just as it opened after lunch. The decorations on the walls and ceilings and the pure serenity of the space transported me.
As we left - reluctantly - we enjoyed a fab coffee and wandered round the shop, a new 'low' in souvenirs was spotted, Holy Land playing cards!
We made good time and got to the Armenian church in time for Vespers (see above!) It was other worldly. No books, no problems, no hitches... You just KNEW that this worship had been handed down across the centuries. I also noticed that there was a real resonance between it and the call to prayer that we are becoming used to. The intonation, the rhythms all echo back to a shared past... and maybe the echoes I heard so early this morning...?
But our day was not finished. We then went to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, that encapsulated Calvary - where Christ was crucified - and the stone on which it is claimed he was laid... as well as the tomb itself. Its all so busy and so complicated, the shrine is shared by four different denominations. The pilgrims come in a constant stream. The hustle and bustle is considerable but we went up the really steep stairs to Calvary and the queue was short... so we joined it. I have to own up that as I watched Fr Brian and Jonathan pray at that spot, the spot where it is said the cross stood, I felt utterly overwhelmed. The sensation was surprising and completely unexpected. As I knelt on that place the tears fell down my cheeks.
Does it matter if this was the real place where the cross was erected...??? No! No, it doesn't to me. The fact is it happened somewhere.
The contrasts in this amazing place are almost beyond description. The smells and sounds assail you constantly. There is poverty and there is plenty - just like other cities. Maybe over the next couple of days I can expand on that...
We walked through souks and had great fun. The title of tackiest souvenir has been overtaken by a set of holographic Jesus stickers - which I might just HAVE to buy. At a dollar for a whole sheet they are a snip!!!
We've had a Sultan's Feast tonight (this hotel is fabulous! convenient, vibrant and FUN!) and I must get back to it! I have a super photo of Fr Derek surrounded by a whole harem of bejewelled ladies!! Let's hope I can load that up soon!!
Tuesday, 25 May 2010
I also HAVE to mention the most delicious lunch that we had in a Lebanese restaurant. A fabulous meze packed full of flavour. Pickled cauliflower, bright yellow with turmeric. wonderful olives. The softest pitta. just fabulous!
But back to the day and let's start with a bump! We saw some Crusader latrines!!! The town of Acre was a Crusader fortress that had been ransacked and left to fill with the sands of the Mediterranean. It was "rediscovered" a couple of decades ago and it is the most brilliant example of architecture and 'way of life'! But back to the latrines! What was it about our ancestors that meant they were fine with communal loos?! These latrines 'sat' 20 on each floor and there were two - and then there were urinals in between the seats! The 'facilities' that we used there were slightly more contemporary, but only just, but the saving grace was the odour - disinfectant! Quite pleasant...
The little alleys were fun and they used golf carts/buggy's to get around. I guess they were like taxis and the perfect size! There were some fun stalls and a sort of souk. we drank freshly squeezed orange juice and some purchased souvenirs. Some, including me went for a little boat trip - how amazing to see the old town from the sea... maybe like other pilgrims did many years ago.
So today was all about history. The Crusaders went to 're-capture' Jerusalem for the Christians. They were monks, militia and pilgrims. They tended the sick but also fought for their faith... maybe for our religious freedom... We visited Roman sites as well, aqueducts at Caesarea Maritima.
That was quite a plateful but we still had more to do! We went to Mount Carmel for lunch and ended up in one of the three possible places that might have been Emmaus. A magnificent Crusader church with the most beautiful frescoes. I think i was very close to information and experience overload!
I saw a golf club, possibly the first maybe the only one in Israel, that was at Caesarea. We also hit some SERIOUS road delays around Tel Aviv - a bit like the M25!
I'm in a bar looking out at the walls of old Jerusalem... talking world affairs with two fellow travellers from the States! Isn't this fun. I think the real challenges will start in the morning! Hope you're enjoying this as much as I am!
Monday, 24 May 2010
It was such a tranquil place...
Before that though we went to Cana, where Jesus turned the water into wine. We saw an old purification jar. I would say that the circumference was so large that two people might just be able to touch fingertips round it. The depth of the stone was about a foot or 30 cms for those who don't recall predecimalisation. So I imagine the 20 gallons or so kept at a really rather pleasant temperature... even in the heat. It was a fascinating vessel. So big it would have required a scoop or small pot to empty it.
Then it was on to the Golan Heights. I have to say when the guide told us it was a beautiful area it felt a strange thing to hear but that is because my mind associates that place with strife. However, he was correct, it is a stunningly beautiful area. Though we did pass large areas that were cordoned off because of mines and another large area where fire had laid it bare. But we went to the top of a mountain and viewed the landscape. At that point we only 60 km from Damascus and 50 km from Tiberias. We could see villages in Lebanon and Syria.
But less of the serious stuff - we saw LOTS of cattle, the fat bulls of Bashan or at least the reasonably well covered ones all trying to find shade.
Our guide Sam pointed out a prison that he referred to as 5* - where corrupt politicians go and are treated in some style.
In a little gift shop in Cana I just managed to resist the temptation to buy some Holy Land shot glasses and the rather brutal looking crown of thorns!
We learnt about cultural divides - between the British and Asian cultures that is! We were gathered in our customary "Sam-i circle" to listen to some wisdom when this Asian lady pushed through to take photos. She got short shrift from one of our number!!
Finally we drove through some little Druze villages, catching sight of a 'wise man', to one of the sources of the River Jordan. The clarity of the water was fantastic. Some of the party took a small sample and it was hard to know that it wasn't tap water! In fact it was impossible. That nature reserve was wonderful - I have to return there!
Finally I want to mention some of our number. There are three priests with us, Fr's Derek, Nick and Brian. Brian comes from Bethnal Green and has one of his churchwardens here, his PCC Secretary and his Treasurer. Paul and Jim are both landlords in the City. We have three head-teachers and all sorts more. Clare was in the same year at college with David Tennant and Carolyn makes costumes for Merlin! So quite a fun group!
More tomorrow from Jerusalem!And a photo then too... or maybe before then!
Sunday, 23 May 2010
Saturday, 22 May 2010
Its a miracle that I am with the group today. One thing that is impressed on us is punctuality! So I duly set my phone alarm for 06:45 this morning and got woken by the hotel phone - an auto alarm for all of us- at 7am... I'd forgotten to adjust the clock on my phone....!! Nearly in BIG trouble.
Today has already been amazing and its still not finished. A boat trip beckons in 5minutes. We will cross Lake Galilee. We've already seen sites that commemorate Jesus' last appearance after his resurrection, the miracle of feeding the 5000 ( and that was just the number of men) and the church that remembers the Sermon on the Mount.
I've picked up a shell, a stone and a seed - but more of them and the words they spoke to me tonight - hopefully!
Its incredibly hot this afternoon! I'm glad I packed a rather fetching (NOT!) hat
:-)
I've taken a fair few photos too!! Be warned....
Friday, 21 May 2010
The flight was great, clear skies over the UK meant we saw more of it than normal, well saw it actually! The inflight meal was kosher I know because I found a little certificate to tell me so.
Then our very first impressions of Israel, albeit from a bus. I was struck by how familiar it all looked and yet everything was different. Birds were recognisable, like kingfishers and crows but they were different colours. The sheep had those big floppy ears and looked more like goats. The flowers were vivid colours and abundant in their blossom. The trees were dusty.
At one point the defence between Israel and Jordan came close to the road. We learnt that for the most part it is uncontroversial. We also learnt that the Jewish day starts and ends at sunset, not midnight. So travelling as the Sabbath approaches is good news, less traffic.
I think that's enough for now. Tomorrow the trip REALLY begins
The first photo is of sunset this evening from my room...
The journey from Norwich was good, now hold ups or delays. I met the group at the right hotel and we had a couple of drinks and a lovely hot buffet. Slept well and deeply but not long enough! I like the style of Ibis hotels.
The sky is clear and blue and we shall soon be sailing up into it! My favourite bit of flying is take off! That moment when you leave the ground and rise into the sky - fabulous!
The group is great. The diversity in age is excellent, Fr Derek (leader) has his son and grandson with us, as well as his wife. Three generations, that's fun. So the mix will be fun.
As for me. How am I feeling? What am I expecting? I'm honestly not sure. Tonight I shall be in a hotel by the side of Lake Galilee. As Jonathan commented last night it is the one place we can confirm historically! Its almost like I daren't expect too much in case I'm disappointed... but I am very, very excited!
Well, I better sign off and catch the shuttle bus! Maybe more from the other side of security...