Friday, 18 June 2010

I'm trying to work out why I chose this image now... apart from the obvious reason - I love the photo and I'm chuffed with it!! Everywhere we went in the coach, alongside the road there were endless huge seed heads, mostly thistles or from that family.

In fact the way that flowers seemed to survive in adversity really fascinated me. The lack of rain didn't seem to prevent flora bursting forth! But, so many were spiky and thorny and harsh - to the touch at least, though frequently magnificent to the eye.

Triumphing over adversity... many could write a sermon on that alone. I've become fascinated by the news that emerges from the Holy Land since my return. The headlines have been full of the situation in Gaza and the recent relaxation of what can go into that area. However, Jonathan drew my attention to a recent protest by ultra Orthodox Jews about education... The Israeli security forces had to contain that situation. It is such a complex place... Can I understand? Not necessarily at the moment - but I want to know more.

I'm reading the Bible in a year - or trying to - and recently read Luke 19. From verse 29 onwards it was poignant - all about Jesus' triumphal entry into Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives. I stood on that hill... I saw that vista... but what really struck me were the verses from 41 onwards - it was all about how Jesus wept over the city of Jerusalem... it some ways it could have been written today...

Saturday, 12 June 2010




Children are the same the whole world over - what a joy and blessing!
They are mischievous and love to play.
These are two images that capture some of our interaction with young people.
The picture of the playground is at the orphanage we visited in Bethany. There are nearly 90 residents at the orphanage and this is one of the places they can play outside, the other is a hard court that is great for football. Behind the tree were a couple of old swings. I can tell you how much they're used because the ground underneath had been scooped out by endless feet dragging across it over the years... Many young children in the UK have this in their own back gardens or much more, like a trampoline... a moment to pause for thought.
The second image is in Jerusalem and happened as we were walking towards David's City and the Gihon Springs. It was a school day but these three or four youngsters were playing truant... or maybe they never went, who knows. Their English was sufficient for their needs - just! They stood in the opening, just visible and demanded a shekel for a photo and lowered an old black plastic bag and a scraggy piece of rope.
Eventually Fr Derek and others relented and Daniel (also in the photo) went to put our contributions in the bag. They didn't understand we'd 'coughed up the cash' so their language became slightly more 'aggressive' though not as bad as one might expect "we are very angry now" was about as bad as it got. When they did get the message that we'd made a donation they attempted to pull up the bag and the rope gave way! They need to do better than that if they're to become entrepreneurs!

Sunday, 6 June 2010







Its about time I reflected on people...
It was impossible to get a shot of the whole group - well nearly impossible. Our last corporate act at the end of the second Saturday was to stand on the steps outside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and have a photo taken.
This is a picture of some of us gathered by one of the sources of the River Jordan where we renewed our baptism vows. This was early in the week, Monday, but we were already beginning to 'gel' as a group. Each of us had the sign of the cross marked on our forehead with water from the river.
Pam was our resident artist! Her little sketches were colour washed each evening on return to our hotel. A brilliant record of the places we had been and somehow so much more personal than photos... a unique interpretation.
We saw so many different people wearing so many different styles of clothing but it somehow felt like an invasion of their privacy to photograph them. However, this gentleman was by the coach stop on our last day and I just loved his 'laid back' approach to life - literally!
I guess what I do want to say about the people is that the group were amazingly diverse, from 13 to 90 in age and from a range of backgrounds - professional and social - that would suggest we'd struggle to mix. In any other circumstances I am sure that would be true but on a pilgrimage all sorts of barriers come tumbling down. Maybe its because we're all on a journey that encourages or even forces us to abandon our normal way of being... Who knows, but we all became very firm friends, we went through so much together.
Its strange coming back... you really miss that closeness...

Saturday, 5 June 2010
















Living places! What a diversity! As I write this I'm not sure how all these photos will show up on the blog! Let's give it a go though and explain some of the different dwelling places we saw.
The first one I shall speak about is the the one through the arch which shows all the little arches opposite. This is from the town of Acre, a Crusader port and town that welcomed pilgrims in the Middle Ages. This is what remains of the hostelry - i.e the hotel! Instead of balconies with sea views the desirable view was on of the 'action' in the quadrangle! I just love the beauty of the symmetry!
The second photo I will talk about is the one from the roof of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. These are the living quarters of the Ethiopian brothers. I rather like their shape and style but I'm not sure I could live in one of these "cells"!
The two top photos are such a contrast. The one set in the desert is a Bedouin settlement - sparse and quite remote. The other photo is of a new settlement on the hills that surround Jerusalem and/or Bethlehem. One is rudimentary and basic, the other is something that we can recognise, building block stuff/ legoland...
I love architecture! I love buildings! (That's entirely due to my father!) Looking at all these styles makes me understand more about the land we were visiting. Its past, its present and its future...
I am challenged by all that I saw in terms of how people lived, now and in the ages before. We tend to think that people lived in primitive conditions in the ages that preceded us... but the reality is that people still live like that, not just in the Holy Land but in a number of other countries throughout the world... It's a challenge!!

Friday, 4 June 2010






Two weeks ago we had just arrived in Tiberias and were practising some of the sung worship in the dark by the Galilee Lake - not the most auspicious start!
Today I'm going to share some of the natural delights we saw.
The bird is an egret - we saw so many in Galilee. When I took this shot it was extremely hot and this bird was gasping - a bit like a dog pants!
We saw and heard some beautiful birds... kingfishers, doves, multi coloured crows and even the odd stork. When we visited Acre the egrets were quick to alight on the fishing boats that docked, just in case there were rich pickings to be had.
In the middle - if you look very carefully you will notice a bright blue dragonfly - and they now have a really special significance for me, since we've moved to Dragonfly Lane. These delicate insects darted across the water, flashes of electric blue lighting up the streams that they hovered over.
The top photo is of a mustard tree! The trees we saw were ubiquitous in some areas growing out of every nook and cranny. The tallest I saw was probably about 7 or 8 feet tall. However, when you look at the minuscule size of the seed it is quite miraculous - but probably explains why the grow out of the smallest crack in the rocks. A fabulous reminder of the parable.
We saw so much more. Stunning oleanders and fabulous bougainvilleas. The colours assailed our senses as we drove through the countryside. By the shore of Lake Galilee we saw a family of small rodents, not unlike guinea pigs. A notice informed us they were "quoted" in the Bible, I think they meant referred to...
As we moved to the desert areas, the Judean desert is truly sparse in vegetation, I was reminded of so much more that we learn about - not least all the prophets and eventually Jesus himself who spent time in the wilderness. How did they survive if it wasn't for divine intervention? Remember Elijah, who wandered off into the desert to die but God kept sending/providing bread and water for him.
We saw sheep and goats, as well as camels who clearly managed to find sufficient nutrients to survive but it really did stretch belief! The vegetation was so harsh and often spiky.
What an incredible land...

Thursday, 3 June 2010











I've been thinking about food... its a basic need and its lunch time! In fact I've just had a ham salad roll and that was what started me thinking about food. We had some delicious meals while we were in the Holy Land!

I guess I'm fascinated by the cultural differences... Both hotels were quite cosmopolitan or at least didn't seem to be overly pre-occupied with the need to serve kosher food. In fact the only differences I really noted were that there was never any pork in sight, though there were some 'salami-type' cold meats (but I didn't try them), and the 'cream' on desserts had definitely not seen a cow!
The photos illustrate some of the differences we saw and experienced. The top left hand one is a fabulous spice stall in Jerusalem. The 'mountain' is purely decorative but no less impressive for that! I can almost recreate the gorgeous aromas the spices were giving off, just by closing my eyes... The second is a sight we saw each morning throughout the streets around our hotel. Little bread stalls set up on the pavement. They sold the wonderful soft sesame covered breads as well as other more garish yellow 'cake-like' foods. This stall sold eggs as well, diversifying!
The two little plates of pickles were the start of the most tasty Lebanese meal I've ever had! The dishes just kept coming and we struggled to keep up with them, and in the end conceded defeat! The most colourful side dish was shocking pink cauliflower - which tasted just liked pickled cauli, but took a bit of effort to get past the colour!! This restaurant won the prize for the best pitta. Pitta bread was ubiquitous! In fact in one place where we ate there was a lovely depiction of Christ breaking bread at Emmaus, but the bread was nowhere to be seen and his eyes and hands were lifted heavenwards... the caption competition winner was "Not more pitta!"
That sounds terribly ungrateful but its the sort of humour that groups develop... Not dark, but sort of a realisation that "we're in this together" and there was so much that was different.
The final shot is more or less self-explanatory - a fish stall! having spent 10 years working for the Food Standards Agency its a bit of a shock (when travelling abroad - even in Europe) to see foods for sale without covering. Where's the EHO when you need one! (That's short for environmental health officer)
I ate like a queen... breakfast was tomatoes, cucumber, eggs, olives, cheese and occasionally taramasalata or hummous... with bread of course and fresh dates. (Maybe not like Elizabeth II though as I hear she eats cereals for brekkie!) Lunch and dinner were often meze style meals with so many luscious dishes my tastebuds were crying out for relief! Hence the mashed potato moment... I think I did get to the point where I couldn't face anymore cabbage (always served as a type of coleslaw)
Ham rolls are really rather boring!

Wednesday, 2 June 2010







I spoke about how quickly things return to normal.... I forgot to mention the saddest thing that happened yesterday. I came into worked, plugged in my laptop and remembered the randomly generated 14 piece password first time. That is VERY sad!

Necia, my flatmate asked me a question that no-one else had last night and I was completely thrown by it! She asked me what was my favourite bit of the whole trip...

Well, where do you start??

In a ten day journey that had not only seen us grow individually but also bond collectively as a group, when we had experienced so many different things, where do you start is a serious question.

Was there anything I could strike off the list of probables immediately? Well, for me there did come a point where I was over all the churches that had been designed by Antonio Barluzzi... All the endless, utterly OTT mosaics are just not 'me', but I know they do suit others - its a personal taste thing. Though I have to admit the final one we went in the Church of All Nations on the Mount of Olives redeemed him in my eyes. The interior of that building was almost other worldly. It certainly transported me to a place where I could imagine myself waiting whilst Jesus prayed alone.

That doesn't get me too much further in my quest to eliminate things or promote even.

We saw two cities close up, Tiberias and Jerusalem. The former modern, the latter ancient. I went out on my own in Tiberias but not in Jerusalem. It wasn't that I felt threatened but I knew I would get lost, I needed a good map to venture out in Jerusalem! I fell in love with Jerusalem, the tiny streets and the hurly burly of the souks. (The second photo is a rather empty little street, they were usually so crowded it was hard to stay still long enough to get a photo!) I adored the glimpses through doors and up little alleyways. In fact I photographed lots of them! I was and still am fascinated by the different quarters and how they all mix and match - or not as the case may be!

I found the dark tunnels and the heights we climbed personally challenging so they slip down my list a bit, however that's just me and some of my more obvious 'phobias'. I was annoyed by the grumpy monk at the monastery on the top of the Mount of Temptation, but thanks to Fr Derek we did manage to get in and it was well worth the wait and long climb up there in stifling heat. (The first photo is a shot of the monastery from the cable car. You can't see all of the route we walked up but you can get an idea of how remote it was!) We later understood that some of the grumpiness was due to a battle of wills between the monk and the cable car owners - who refuse to allow him to bring up bottled water by cable car...

So, what spring into my mind when Necia asked the question? What was my gut reaction? Well it was the very last experience we had on Saturday evening when the four of us, Mhairi, Michael, Jonathan and I went to Syrian Vespers. (The third photo is of one of the monks afterwards) It lyrical simplicity, lack of hordes of tourists and connectivity with something ancient was just a fabulous experience - a real high to go out on!

Tuesday, 1 June 2010


This is a photo of an amazing fresco in the Church on Mt Tabor - where we went on Pentecost Sunday. It was the last of four and depicts Christ's resurrection. I'm not really sure why I chose this one for today's reflections but it was a favourite moment on the whole journey... despite the Harrods sale ending!
This is my first day back at work! Its incredible how quickly everything slots back into the old routine! Unpacking all my desk detritus - we have a serious clear desk policy here - felt like normal. The intervening days that transformed my way of looking at all sorts, not least my faith, seemed a million miles away!
I find myself waking early every morning and its not just because we were two hours ahead of the UK when we were in the Holy Land but mostly because my mind is doing somersaults trying to process all the information I 'uploaded'! I had a fascinating conversation with my Mum last night, she visited the Holy Land fifteen years ago and she was saying how it had changed everything for her so that when the lessons were read she saw them in a different light.
I know what she means. My whole perception of the context in which the Bible is set has been re-calibrated but.... I'm not sure I totally believe either is right or wrong, better or worse. It also links with a conversation I had while we were away which went along the lines of - why is Jesus always portrayed as a blue eyed blond haired cherub in nativity scenes, and moved on from there.
I have told this story several times so apologies to those of you who have heard it before but today's revelation links to this. I went to view the Seeing Salvation exhibition at the National Gallery in London in the year 200 three times. I went so often because it was free but mostly because it entranced me. The art depicted Christ in so many ways. It portrayed him as someone from the time, dressed him and his followers in clothes that were contemporary in that age.
Christ and God the Trinity exist at all times, through all times, in all time - so therefore are relevant and real in all cultures and all societies. That reminds me of the fabulous ceramics of Mary at the Church of the Annunciation. Each from different cultures from across the globe and each interpreting Mary in their own style. None were wrong, equally none were 'right' - all were valid.
Gosh this is getting serious! Sorry... but I will continue my thread of thought from today!
I came to the conclusion that, yes, my Mum was correct. the visit to the Holy Land would change how I envisaged the Bible readings in future. However, I also concluded that it didn't make me believe more or confirm my faith more. But that goes back to the doubting Thomas story and Jesus saying "happy are those who haven't seen and yet believe". Similarly its fine to receive scripture and set it in a modern context. It doesn't matter if you imagine all sorts of things about landscape, city streets and population numbers. All that matters is that you believe the truth that underpins the story. That you get the message.
It is, nevertheless, a privilege to set it in the context of the Holy Land.
Returning to the frescos that I am doing a great disservice to. Each of the four had the three heavenly beings as a constant... fair-haired etc, but what fascinated me was the way that they always had feet that didn't touch the ground, that pointed down... I guess that showed they were hovering not standing! What fun!!

Monday, 31 May 2010







My first day back home... I can't start it without referring to the tragic events with the aid ships that were trying to take supplies to Gaza. I can't begin to tell you what I am feeling about this tragedy...
I found the Holy Land to truly be a land of plenty. The fertility of the place was incredible even in the face of such harsh conditions. We ate the most delicious fruit and vegetables, and saw the abundance of provision... I cannot believe that there isn't room for everyone...
It takes me back to the couple we met at the hotel who had a number of guides during their stay but the general message was tourism is the glue that is keeping everything together - peacefully. If I have written that before I sort of apologise but not absolutely so, we need to cling to every straw we can. The City of Jerusalem is that pivotal.
I really, really don't make a habit of crying but I have to say that this dreadful turn of events made me cry inside.
I chose three photos from the nearly 600 I took for you. The window is from the Church of All Nations. It is made of alabaster - a beautiful stone, translucent and delightful. The light, or lack of it, inside the church was stunning with all the windows like this.
The vegetation is what legend says made the crown of thorns. It doesn't have a gauge with which to compare but I can tell you that those thorns were between 2.5 and 3 INCHES not centimetres!
The final one is of the Al Aqaesa (sp?) mosque. From some views it looks so dominant but from many others its barely visible. The regular call to prayer was a constant rhythm that pervaded our stay in Jerusalem...
One comment that Mhiari made on our last evening returned to me this morning when I woke. It was that the language that the Syrian Vespers used was the closest to what Jesus would have said. It was a plain but melodic language, guttural at times - but maybe that was the intonation of the chants. Its an intriguing idea to chew on. To listen to the language that Jesus taught in - how fabulous!
Having spent 10 days together, its quite amazing how much I miss the group. Its brilliant to be home and be with the family and in familiar surroundings but when you experience the sorts of intellectual and other challenges we faced together, the fun and laughter, the sadness and sorrow, its hard to be separated.
I will continue to post my ramblings as the days pass and I recall fresh memories.
BUT for now the ironing and unpacking still beckon - sadly! One bit of good (but girlie) news is that despite the huge meals we ate I only put on a pound!! Yippee!!

Sunday, 30 May 2010




Well... after a very long day I am now back in Norwich! Its now 8.30pm UK time and I got up 15hrs ago but I'm still alert - just!
The photos above are - moon set on the left and on the opposite horizon the new day dawning.

Leaving both the Holy Land but especially the other pilgrims was extremely sad, we'd all come to know one another so well - and that includes the place! I now begin to comprehend what has driven Fr Derek to return over these years. Its beauty and its complexity. Its antiquity and its drive to be part of the 21st century. Its pain and its vibrancy.

I was in a queue today at the airport, waiting to get my passport cleared before boarding, and I got talking to a lovely older man. He lives in Cornwall and is an active member of the Jewish community there. We talked lots - its was a HUGE queue - but one of the things I remarked to him about was that I was completely absorbed by the amount of prayer and worship that happens in Jerusalem... Given that the three Abrahamic faiths all have a focal point there I am left intrigued by what the past, present and future hold for that incredible city...

My mind is too replete at present and certainly too tired. I will post some photos in the morning including one for my profile - I hope! I saw moon-set today... but when its the equivalent of 3am UK time you'd prefer to be going home rather than getting up.

Saying farewell is tough though but I know that for the 34 of us who shared this journey it is truly only Au Revoir!

I promise more tomorrow!!

Saturday, 29 May 2010






These are just some of the photos I took on our "Holy Week in a Day"! Reasonably self explanatory:

Our final Mass - in Gethsemane
The view from the roof of the convent where we had lunch

Sunlight cascading through the roof light above the tomb in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Its the last night and my brain is in a spin! SO much happened today its difficult to know where to start - except I have decided that this blog will continue when I return to the UK as I recall fresh memories or have further reflections.

But what about today? It was peaks and troughs, from the sublime to the surreal! For example we ended the day with four of us going to the Syrian Vespers... utterly sublime. Then we came back to the hotel and saw fireworks being let off in the daylight!! Completely surreal! What was all that about?!? You couldn't see them...

The whole experience, from Passion tide through to the resurrection was intense. Walking down the Mount of Olives in total silence clutching palm crosses was beautiful. Having our second open air Mass in a garden at Gethsemane was awe-inspiring but the noise of the traffic and constant horns/sirens was at the opposite end of the spectrum to the tranquility of the Galilean experience.

Talking of noise brings to mind my first thought of the day when we at at the Church of the Paternoster (Our Father). The church has the Lord's prayer in countless languages, really poignant. But what struck me was the bird song that accompanied our visit - were they saying their own version... Who knows but it sounded so sweet.

After another delicious lunch - I never thought I'd be so excited to see a huge plate of mashed potatoes! - we started on the route of the Via Doloroso (I'll check the spelling later). It couldn't have been a more exquisite start, Clare - a fellow pilgrim - is a trained singer and she sung a solo at the first station. Hauntingly beautiful, words fail me, tears stung my eyes and wet my cheeks. Another sublime moment.

The actual route took us through souks that were so crowded that people pushed us and grumbled. It was pretty rough at times. But I suspect nowhere near as rough as the reaction Jesus got. Two of our number got lost at one point but we were reunited not long afterwards.

It was hot and uncomfortable, testing and trying. It was utterly draining in many ways and the emotion of standing in front of the site of the Crucifixion was palpable. A really sublime moment...

Then some of our number queued to get into the site of the tomb - and, therefore, resurrection. What a difficult time that was. It was incredibly hot and people were constantly queue jumping. The stress of it all was horrible, a really unpleasant time. But it all faded as we approached the altar in the tomb and five of us knelt together... I haven't got the words to describe how that felt.

We escaped the melee that was the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and went to a cafe. We ordered four Arabic beers. They duly arrived and revealed that they were "0.0% alcohol" brewed in the Netherlands and called Bavaria! Definitely surreal!!

Which then brings me back to the tranquility of the Syrian vespers... what a delightful way to end our day and our journey.

Please excuse the typos etc, I promise I'll correct them on my return to the UK... but we have a 5am alarm call in the morning so the bar beckons!!

I do hope you're enjoying this as much as me - let me know!

Friday, 28 May 2010





Last day but one... its all gone so quickly and yet I feel so tired I'm longing to return home and 'chew' on this!
The photos are:
One of the beautiful carved holes for a light in the cave at Bethlehem where we had Mass. Obviously not original but I just loved its simplicity and underlying message.
The second is from the rehabilitation centre in Beit Jala (I'll check that spelling too, but not now!) If you can't quite make out the words it says "Every patient is first and foremost a human being"


(As I write this our hotel is full and buzzing with locals, it feels like Friday night at the Beehive - in Norwich!)


I keep recalling things I meant to say earlier. The temperature on Jericho yesterday reached 41 C! I drank litres of water and I am sure most of it evaporated from my skin!


I have to tell you about mustard trees! For the first time in my life I have seen them and on the way to Bethlehem today I saw loads! But then when you think about how tiny the seed is its not surprising! But they grow everywhere, interesting to consider that alongside the parable Jesus told about mustard seed.


We caught sight of lots of sheep and their shepherds. Biblical looking sheep with the shaggy ears. They roamed the hills around Bethlehem. It seemed just 'right'.


However, the day started with a trip to the palace of Herod the Great. It was truly magnificent! He created a hill by using the local resources and then kept people busy on building projects for years - even beyond his death. We walked round the walls of the circular towers.


Walls were a theme today. We saw tiny terraces that were farmed and marked out by stone walls. We also saw the wall that is being constructed to mark the two communities who live cheek by jowl in the land. I say two but its not that simple in many ways.


The sand storm added to the general dustiness and I really got the whole Biblical issue about foot washing and following in the dust of your rabbi...


The star photo comes from a grotto at Shepherds Fields. I have to say there is an incongruity about singing carols in blazing heat (but they do it all the time in Oz!) We had our Mass there and looking out from the simplicity of the caves to the expanding townships all around was quite compelling.


For lunch we went to a rehabilitation centre. I shall probably say more about this when I've had time to think about it but it was a wonderful place and we all got a lot out of it, as well as a great meal!


Surreal moment for today (and yesterday) was the number of souvenir shops that were named so 'obviously' - yesterday it was Mary and Martha's shop, today I saw Boaz' and even John the Baptist's emporiums...!!


Our final visit of the day was to the Church of the Nativity as we climax towards the end of our journey. To say it was a less than spiritual experience is stretching reality. There were so many people there and the queue was so long that by the time we reached the holy site it was handbags at ten paces! In fact some one's mobile phone went off while we were in the most sacred of places - and he answered it! Needless to say he wasn't in out group!!!!


It was still a fascinating day though. I am now learning about how the reality that is this land impacts on its future. How its complicated past colours the days ahead. So not only am I on a religious/faith journey I am also understanding cultural issues in a whole new way.


Did I say that the photo was from the cave we worshipped in...?


I'm close to saturation point... so much to absorb in such a short time and tomorrow we do the the whole of Holy Week, from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, in a day!!!

Thursday, 27 May 2010




The two photos above are at opposite ends of the day. The children were from the orphanage we visited in Bethany and the picture of the 'celestial body' is the SUN! Seen through the sand storm.
So, some random thoughts from today. I just love the bread sellers! They are there as we start our day with barrows loaded with delicious soft elliptical breads... I could live on them - well for now anyway.

Last night we had Margaret's friend Rebecca visit us and tonight Alice joined us. Both work for the UN here in the Holy Land and both are impressive young women. They have told us all sorts, mostly how much they love this place and the people but the one thing that has stuck in my mind is that only 5% of the water supply in Gaza meets the WHO standard. I find it challenging that in our 'modern' world we are still confronted by such a statistic - AND that is replicated throughout the world, to our disgrace...

But how about a few random recollections from today! We went to Bethany first of all, the most unexpected thing I saw was chickens in plastic boxes, piled up outside shop - alive, but I assume not for long! (I have a photo that will show that but it'll have to wait!)

We got our first glimpse of the wall that separates and divides... I think for Europeans the echoes to the Berlin Wall are too poignant. We took a while to drive to Bethany, when is was a walkable distance.

We went to the orphanage that is supported by the McCabe Educational Trust. To say that I felt we were visiting a shrine is not too far from the truth. The work that happens there is incredible - approx 90 young boys between the ages of 3 and 15 live there, it is their home. They are educated, clothed, fed and there is a good feel about the place. I think they are loved, I am sure they are loved. They looked happy and well adjusted as they sang to us - and we to them (The wheels on the bus!!) But we sneaked a peek in a 'dormitory' and there were no personal effects. I have no doubt those kids were cared for but they need the warmth of relationship. The stats suggest that many find it there and their lives are transformed. I am not ashamed to say I cried!

And then we visited the house of Lazarus (and his sisters Mary and Martha) Lazarus was raised from the dead by Jesus - and before he did that Jesus wept.... I'll say no more... except that there was a sticker above most of the doors in the orphanage that said ' Life is worth living'

On a lighter note, where the bus had parked a camel was also 'sitting'. Two of the group were tempted to ride it! I mention this because the young boy who sold me some water (chilled and necessary!) told me a joke.. The camel had a poo and it was handled speedily - but before they were cleared the boy came up to me giggling, pointed to the droppings and said "falafel"! Child humour is universal - as is adult!

We then travelled down to Jericho. Literally down! The desert was spectacular and I loved the goat/sheep paths over the hillsides (again photo evidence can be provided!)

Jericho came with a cable car ride up the Mount of Temptation. Stunning views - to begin with - and a fabulous monastery to visit, perched on the side of the mountain. Icons to die for! Views weren't bad either! But the visibility decreased and sand storm blew in!

We saw a flock of camels wandering around the suburbs of Jericho, not something that you see often in the UK! We had glimpses of the Bedouin who live in the Judean desert hills and tend flocks of sheep and goats... We drank in experiences that few of us realised still existed!

Goodness knows what tomorrow will bring... We are off to Bethlehem. One last thought as I log off... What did I learn about my faith today... well I learnt that its not just ideological - its real and has to be lived!
Time for a quick weather update!

Yesterday I forgot to say that I awoke, briefly, just around dawn and the walls of Jerusalem were bathed in a pink hue.... delightful!

The temperature reached 34 C yesterday and it was a long day with lots of time outside! I was wearing a muslin shirt but still my arms are pink!

Today the sky in cloudy and looking quite threatening in one direction. Just as well I packed my umbrella... I assume all my fellow Brit travellers did too!!!

More tonight including some more photos hopefully, have a great day - I'm off to Bethany and Jericho with a cable car ride up a mountain... I'm not good at heights!

Wednesday, 26 May 2010




Oh my goodness!!!! Is that OMG?

(I'm having fun trying to add photos so that may have to wait!)
Have now managed to resolve that problem! I hope you like the strained glass - I did! Glass has a particular fascination for me. It often changes as the day passes and the light quality alters. The top photo is from the church of the Holy Sepulchre and shows the little crosses that were carved into the stones by our forebears.

Our first full day in Jerusalem and I have been blown away! The alarm call and breakfast were early - especially after getting to bed the wrong side of midnight but then that's what pilgrimages are all about!

We started the day by celebrating Mass at St Ann's church. (St Ann is the mother of Mary.) We had been warned that the acoustics were stunning but nothing prepared me for the sensation I felt as the notes echoed around and around and then hung in the upper reaches of the roof... Possibly a foretaste of what heaven will be like? Who knows, but I do know that if that is the case I'd be more than happy.

We then started on a walking tour that introduced us to the old town and the Old Testament. So we saw sites that linked directly to David, Solomon and Hezekiah We dipped out toes in the pool of Siloam where Jesus cured the blind man. We were challenged afresh by Jesus' question to the cripple at the pool of Bethsaida - Do you want to be healed? Do you want your life to be turned upside down? We saw the tunnel that was constructed to secure the water supply in 8th century BC, that was started from each end AND met in the middle... a latter day Channel Tunnel, without all the technology.

We walked along and crossed the Kidron Valley and encountered four young boys who were clearly 'bunking' school! They were sitting in an opening about 20ft above the ground in an old carved tomb. They lowered a plastic bag and asked for a shekel in return for their photos to be taken! Very enterprising! (Mark - note, I used the word very!)

I was really struck by the steepness of the hills. We walked up and down valleys. It was tough going! But we all made it. We saw cavernous prison cells and the holes through the ceilings where the persecuted were 'strung up' to be flogged. It was completely believable... in fact all too graphic...

We went into the Armenian Quarter for lunch - it was delicious! We were reminded of the genocide that forced them to flee through a torn poster on a wall.

Before we attended Vespers in the Armenian Orthodox church - utterly amazing - we went to see the church of the Dormition. One of the possible sites where Mary is buried. (The daughter of St Ann, and mother of Jesus! Are you keeping up with all this? Its a bit like a TV serial, you have to keep your wits about you!) The church was so beautiful. It was tranquil, well it was when we arrived, just as it opened after lunch. The decorations on the walls and ceilings and the pure serenity of the space transported me.

As we left - reluctantly - we enjoyed a fab coffee and wandered round the shop, a new 'low' in souvenirs was spotted, Holy Land playing cards!

We made good time and got to the Armenian church in time for Vespers (see above!) It was other worldly. No books, no problems, no hitches... You just KNEW that this worship had been handed down across the centuries. I also noticed that there was a real resonance between it and the call to prayer that we are becoming used to. The intonation, the rhythms all echo back to a shared past... and maybe the echoes I heard so early this morning...?

But our day was not finished. We then went to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, that encapsulated Calvary - where Christ was crucified - and the stone on which it is claimed he was laid... as well as the tomb itself. Its all so busy and so complicated, the shrine is shared by four different denominations. The pilgrims come in a constant stream. The hustle and bustle is considerable but we went up the really steep stairs to Calvary and the queue was short... so we joined it. I have to own up that as I watched Fr Brian and Jonathan pray at that spot, the spot where it is said the cross stood, I felt utterly overwhelmed. The sensation was surprising and completely unexpected. As I knelt on that place the tears fell down my cheeks.

Does it matter if this was the real place where the cross was erected...??? No! No, it doesn't to me. The fact is it happened somewhere.

The contrasts in this amazing place are almost beyond description. The smells and sounds assail you constantly. There is poverty and there is plenty - just like other cities. Maybe over the next couple of days I can expand on that...

We walked through souks and had great fun. The title of tackiest souvenir has been overtaken by a set of holographic Jesus stickers - which I might just HAVE to buy. At a dollar for a whole sheet they are a snip!!!

We've had a Sultan's Feast tonight (this hotel is fabulous! convenient, vibrant and FUN!) and I must get back to it! I have a super photo of Fr Derek surrounded by a whole harem of bejewelled ladies!! Let's hope I can load that up soon!!

Tuesday, 25 May 2010

I have to start with a couple of things that popped into my mind about yesterday before I start on today! When we were travelling through the Golan Heights and passing through the Druze villages I was amazed by how carefully materials - that we would probably throw away were stored carefully 'just in case'... A real sense of waste not want not!

I also HAVE to mention the most delicious lunch that we had in a Lebanese restaurant. A fabulous meze packed full of flavour. Pickled cauliflower, bright yellow with turmeric. wonderful olives. The softest pitta. just fabulous!

But back to the day and let's start with a bump! We saw some Crusader latrines!!! The town of Acre was a Crusader fortress that had been ransacked and left to fill with the sands of the Mediterranean. It was "rediscovered" a couple of decades ago and it is the most brilliant example of architecture and 'way of life'! But back to the latrines! What was it about our ancestors that meant they were fine with communal loos?! These latrines 'sat' 20 on each floor and there were two - and then there were urinals in between the seats! The 'facilities' that we used there were slightly more contemporary, but only just, but the saving grace was the odour - disinfectant! Quite pleasant...

The little alleys were fun and they used golf carts/buggy's to get around. I guess they were like taxis and the perfect size! There were some fun stalls and a sort of souk. we drank freshly squeezed orange juice and some purchased souvenirs. Some, including me went for a little boat trip - how amazing to see the old town from the sea... maybe like other pilgrims did many years ago.

So today was all about history. The Crusaders went to 're-capture' Jerusalem for the Christians. They were monks, militia and pilgrims. They tended the sick but also fought for their faith... maybe for our religious freedom... We visited Roman sites as well, aqueducts at Caesarea Maritima.

That was quite a plateful but we still had more to do! We went to Mount Carmel for lunch and ended up in one of the three possible places that might have been Emmaus. A magnificent Crusader church with the most beautiful frescoes. I think i was very close to information and experience overload!

I saw a golf club, possibly the first maybe the only one in Israel, that was at Caesarea. We also hit some SERIOUS road delays around Tel Aviv - a bit like the M25!

I'm in a bar looking out at the walls of old Jerusalem... talking world affairs with two fellow travellers from the States! Isn't this fun. I think the real challenges will start in the morning! Hope you're enjoying this as much as I am!

Monday, 24 May 2010

This is one of the sources of the of the River Jordan.

It was such a tranquil place...


Our last full day in Galilee and what a stunner - the weather was great, I hear its the same back home.... so I hope my poor garden is surviving! But for me this day posed all sorts of new challenges. We travelled to the Golan Heights.

Before that though we went to Cana, where Jesus turned the water into wine. We saw an old purification jar. I would say that the circumference was so large that two people might just be able to touch fingertips round it. The depth of the stone was about a foot or 30 cms for those who don't recall predecimalisation. So I imagine the 20 gallons or so kept at a really rather pleasant temperature... even in the heat. It was a fascinating vessel. So big it would have required a scoop or small pot to empty it.

Then it was on to the Golan Heights. I have to say when the guide told us it was a beautiful area it felt a strange thing to hear but that is because my mind associates that place with strife. However, he was correct, it is a stunningly beautiful area. Though we did pass large areas that were cordoned off because of mines and another large area where fire had laid it bare. But we went to the top of a mountain and viewed the landscape. At that point we only 60 km from Damascus and 50 km from Tiberias. We could see villages in Lebanon and Syria.

But less of the serious stuff - we saw LOTS of cattle, the fat bulls of Bashan or at least the reasonably well covered ones all trying to find shade.

Our guide Sam pointed out a prison that he referred to as 5* - where corrupt politicians go and are treated in some style.

In a little gift shop in Cana I just managed to resist the temptation to buy some Holy Land shot glasses and the rather brutal looking crown of thorns!

We learnt about cultural divides - between the British and Asian cultures that is! We were gathered in our customary "Sam-i circle" to listen to some wisdom when this Asian lady pushed through to take photos. She got short shrift from one of our number!!

Finally we drove through some little Druze villages, catching sight of a 'wise man', to one of the sources of the River Jordan. The clarity of the water was fantastic. Some of the party took a small sample and it was hard to know that it wasn't tap water! In fact it was impossible. That nature reserve was wonderful - I have to return there!

Finally I want to mention some of our number. There are three priests with us, Fr's Derek, Nick and Brian. Brian comes from Bethnal Green and has one of his churchwardens here, his PCC Secretary and his Treasurer. Paul and Jim are both landlords in the City. We have three head-teachers and all sorts more. Clare was in the same year at college with David Tennant and Carolyn makes costumes for Merlin! So quite a fun group!

More tomorrow from Jerusalem!And a photo then too... or maybe before then!

Sunday, 23 May 2010


What a day! So much happening!

We had a pick 'n' mix of liturgies in the morning mostly because it was a special feast day - Pentecost - when the Holy Spirit was sent to the new church. I also saw my first donkey - in Nazareth - of course! But back to the the different services. The Greek Orthodox service was utterly incredible. AND the place was full! The reason we experienced that church was because it held the spring that tradition says Mary was at when the angel visited her.


The Church of the Annunciation was MASSIVE! Full of the most beautiful modern stained glass. (There are some photos - of course.) Though there was a funny moment when we went to the church of St Joseph. It was a tiny but beautiful building that was over an old cavern house. But it was small and just down the end of the lane - a bit like a potting shed in comparison!


The plain of Armageddon was also on the itinerary today. It was spectacular in size! Quite mind-blowing. Its biding its time with arable farming until the final battle. Apparently there are groups of pilgrims that come to see just that!


We went up Mount Tabor by minibus - 16 sharp hairpins. One of the drivers had one arm but we all got there and back OK. The church was wonderful and we had the most amazing Eucharist there. Hauntingly beautiful music. Even with us singing. However today's surreal moment was the crowd held back behind a rope at the top of the stairs which when 'let lose' stampeded into the area where we were as if it was the Harrods sale! Bizarre!


It is truly brilliant here and I can't wait for tomorrow! Did I see the spring and well that Mary used? Was the cavern house where Joseph and his little family lived? Was the church of the transfiguration on Mount Tabor exactly where Elijah and Moses joined Jesus? I don't know... I could believe that a spring doesn't move... I can see the cavern looked old... Yes, the mountain is the same as it has always been... BUT does it matter? For me - no it doesn't... and that's what I'm learning!

Saturday, 22 May 2010


This is the tranquility that is Galilee. Peaceful, beautiful water that laps against the shore though not always like that. In the afternoon as we travelled back in the boat the wind 'blew up' and there were quite a few waves, though nowhere near as many as were created by the jet skis that criss crossed the lake. It did make me think momentarily WWJD - what would Jesus do?!
Let's work backwards. The most surreal moment of the day, which comes in a close second to doing some traditional dancing on a boat, was when we left the mooring at the kibbutz and they raised a union jack and played the national anthem! The most surreal moment was when we all stood up and sang it! They then played 'Flower of Scotland' but we quickly ran out of the words for the second verse!
Its really quite difficult to know where to start so I may just resort to telling you about the shell, stone and seed. The shell I found very close to where this picture was taken. In fact the seashore was full of little fragments of shells. The shell is the symbol of a pilgrim, in fact we were given one last night. However, this is one I found and picked up and prompted me to start thinking. Pilgrimage is about a journey - the whole external thing about travelling to places of special significance - but also about an internal journey that only each of us can experience. Its about reflection and assessment. Its about working out where I am and is that where I should be. In fact am I happy to be there... So that was where the shell took me.
Then there was the stone. Again collected from close to where the picture was taken. It is smooth from decades (or more) of being tossed against the shore. It is small-ish and oval-ish. It fits into the palm of my hand and I love hoding one as I pray. It reminds me of the time when Jesus challenged the priests to be the first to throw the stone and condemn the woman... It also has resonances today, when we spent time thinking about St Peter, about the rock (a much bigger stone) that the church wasbuilt on. We're all stones in that worldwide building...
Then there was the seed. It came along much later in the morning - as we celebrated Holy Communion - The Mass - by the shore of Lake Galilee. Bird song accompanied our worship> It was the first corporate act we made. As I returned from taking bread and wine, there before me where I was sitting was a pea sized seed. Shrivelled and pretty ugly but it reminded me that there is always hope of new life. It looks ugly but it has the potential to grow into something beautiful...
Don't we all...?
Gosh, that's a bit deep! We're now relaxing after supper with the odd glass of something discussing the deeply complex political situation that encapsulates this land... Which is equally deep in a rather different sort of way!
Tomorrow is Pentecost! The day when the Holy Spirit was given to the church... we shall spend the day in Nazareth and then go to Mount Tabor!
This will be a real quickie! I'm in a kibbutz by the shore of Lake Galilee!!

Its a miracle that I am with the group today. One thing that is impressed on us is punctuality! So I duly set my phone alarm for 06:45 this morning and got woken by the hotel phone - an auto alarm for all of us- at 7am... I'd forgotten to adjust the clock on my phone....!! Nearly in BIG trouble.

Today has already been amazing and its still not finished. A boat trip beckons in 5minutes. We will cross Lake Galilee. We've already seen sites that commemorate Jesus' last appearance after his resurrection, the miracle of feeding the 5000 ( and that was just the number of men) and the church that remembers the Sermon on the Mount.

I've picked up a shell, a stone and a seed - but more of them and the words they spoke to me tonight - hopefully!

Its incredibly hot this afternoon! I'm glad I packed a rather fetching (NOT!) hat

:-)

I've taken a fair few photos too!! Be warned....

Friday, 21 May 2010




Well, I'm sitting by the lake at the Ron Beach Hotel. Its 10.15 pm local time and the temperature is lovely... we're drinking local beer and just had a delicious supper.




But let's go back to this morning! We went through the check-in procedure at the airport and then headed for breakfast. Traditional English breakfast was the order of the day... the last time we'd see bacon and sausages for a while....


The flight was great, clear skies over the UK meant we saw more of it than normal, well saw it actually! The inflight meal was kosher I know because I found a little certificate to tell me so.

Then our very first impressions of Israel, albeit from a bus. I was struck by how familiar it all looked and yet everything was different. Birds were recognisable, like kingfishers and crows but they were different colours. The sheep had those big floppy ears and looked more like goats. The flowers were vivid colours and abundant in their blossom. The trees were dusty.


At one point the defence between Israel and Jordan came close to the road. We learnt that for the most part it is uncontroversial. We also learnt that the Jewish day starts and ends at sunset, not midnight. So travelling as the Sabbath approaches is good news, less traffic.


I think that's enough for now. Tomorrow the trip REALLY begins


The first photo is of sunset this evening from my room...


Its VERY early in the morning... We're at the airport now about to set off for check-in.

The journey from Norwich was good, now hold ups or delays. I met the group at the right hotel and we had a couple of drinks and a lovely hot buffet. Slept well and deeply but not long enough! I like the style of Ibis hotels.

The sky is clear and blue and we shall soon be sailing up into it! My favourite bit of flying is take off! That moment when you leave the ground and rise into the sky - fabulous!

The group is great. The diversity in age is excellent, Fr Derek (leader) has his son and grandson with us, as well as his wife. Three generations, that's fun. So the mix will be fun.

As for me. How am I feeling? What am I expecting? I'm honestly not sure. Tonight I shall be in a hotel by the side of Lake Galilee. As Jonathan commented last night it is the one place we can confirm historically! Its almost like I daren't expect too much in case I'm disappointed... but I am very, very excited!

Well, I better sign off and catch the shuttle bus! Maybe more from the other side of security...

Thursday, 20 May 2010


It's official... I am now EXCITED! Finished work last night. It's incredible how much you can do on your last day, I know its a well known fact but I am so efficient when I have a huge lot to achieve... Don't tell my boss that ;-)


I emptied and filed my email inbox and I even completed my UWR records - that's Universal Work Recording - which I own up to hating doing! I do wonder what code I shall use when I return to find the email inbox overflowing...


But less about looking back more about looking forward! I've just finished the essential girlie bits and had my legs waxed - as you do! Now I better start thinking about packing, but before I do that I've just assembled all the chargers and leads that I will need to take! Its quite a pile, so I took a photo and the idea is that I'll attach it to this first post! I'd love to say that I'm IT savvy but just ask my son or daughter and they'll tell you otherwise. It looks like its worked! How even more exciting!
I've just remembered something I left off my profile. I absolutely LOVE photography, but rarely take people! I also love sharing thoughts and experiences so blogging is probably right up my street!
I better stop now or I won't get ready in time and that will be the end of this blog!
Oh, by the way... for those who don't know... my friend Jonathan and I are off to Israel for a 10 day pilgrimage starting this evening! We'll introduce you to others in the party as we go along. This blog will be the story of that visit. Our impressions and thoughts and images.
Hope you enjoy it as much I am sure we will do!